Twig Chandelier Tutorial

As promised, I've got a tutorial for you today. Wha-hoo! I've never had so much interest in how to make something before:) I could have posted it on Monday...sans pictures. But, if you're like me, you NEED the pictures. I got so tempted during the week to just go ahead and post it due to constant requests, but I made myself not jump the gun because I didn't want to put it out there until it was finished. I still haven't finished the new painted version that I'm making, so I'll post pictures of that once it's complete and fill in a few more pictures on the tutorial. It's been a busy week and this is a time consuming, although simple project. I hope this is as easy for you as I think it will be.

****BIG DISCLAIMER!!!!!****

"While I would assume common sense would tell you this is potentially a fire risk, I have come to the conclusion that there isn't an abundance of that anymore. So, let me spell it out for you....I CAN NOT be held liable for ANYTHING resulting from YOUR decision to make one of these twig chandeliers! Please realize that putting dried sticks on a chandelier near heated bulbs and electricity is a potential fire hazard. Be careful not to let any touch the bulbs! Again, you assume all risk doing this as a DIY project. These directions are based on achieving a look, not safety. Please use any and all safety precautions when following to create your own."

 

Twig Chandelier Tutorial

"Twig Chandelier"
by
B.E. Interiors

Are you ready to get “twiggy with it”? Betcha are. Let’s get to it!

Materials:

  LOTS and LOTS of crape myrtle twigs!

• These are naturally curled and the perfect length.
• Just go look under a tree and they are all over the ground. You don’t even have to cut anything! I collected all of mine from under our three trees. I can assure you, if don’t have one yourself, you can find one anywhere here in the south and no one will mind you taking them as it cleans up the bed….just ask to make sureJ. Take you a bucket and fill ‘er up. Can’t beat free!

Inexpensive grapevine wreaths

• Two should do it for a medium – large size chandelier. Just cut the wreath in half. Now you have your large, textural curved twigs!
  Straight sticks
  • medium thickness – enough to surround the center and/or thicken the exposed rod at the bottom (if using a chandelier like pictured)
  
  
  Bronze or black small gage wire.
  • Look in the wood working section or a craft store or the floral department. Need a good bit of this.
  
  
  Wire Cutting needle nose pliers.
  
  
  An old or cheap chandelier.
  
  
  Glass/crystal garland (NOT PLASTIC).
  • This is the only part you really spend any money on and is totally optional. I paid only $8 +/- for mine with %40 off coupons at Michaels (or Hobby Lobby). It took two 6 foot strands for my chandelier.
  
  
  Drop cloth or old sheet
  • Use it to catch all the twigs and stuff that fall while working. Clean up is a ton easier this way!
  
  
  Candelabra bulbs to fit your existing base.
  
  
  Spray Paint in your color of choice if you choose to paint when done.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ready to get started? Let’s go!
  
  Let's take this:
  
  
  
  to this (or similar anyway)!
  
  

  

  Study Chandelier
  via Deenna Wish Design

  Step 1:
  
  

  Collect your sticks and twigs. You’ll need a bunch of the curved ones from the crape myrtles AND grapevine wreaths. You’ll also need just enough straight ones to go around the center of the chandelier. If you want to make them soft and more pliable, soak overnight in a tub of water – same goes for the wreath.
  
  
  Step 2:
  Spread your sheet/drop cloth out under the chandelier to catch your mess. You’ll definitely have one if your sticks are the least bit dry.
  
  
  Step 3:
  
  

  

  I hung my second version from a board straddling a ladder to work on.

  
  Turn off the breaker to your chandelier if working in place or hang the chandelier somehow so you can
  work on it while hanging. Don’t try to do this with it lying down as the sticks will break off. If you can
  work outside, do!
  
  (Optional Step 4)
  
  

  

  
  If spray painting, take the socket covers off, tape up sockets to prevent spray paint from getting in them, and paint the chandelier PRIOR to applying sticks. This keeps an parts from "peeking" out through the twigs when finished.
  Step 4:
  
  

  

  
  

  

  View of the top center above the arms with straight sticks applied.

  
  

  

  This is an example of gluing to a ribbon. Use larger sticks for center and small like this for outer layers.

  
  Depending on the shape of the chandelier and if you don’t want to potentially ruin it, you can hot glue or Liquid Nail the straight sticks around the center base (most secure method) or you can glue them to a piece of ribbon to wrap around the center. Hot glue the ends of the ribbon together in place.
  
  
  Step 5:
  

  
  

  

  
  

  
  
  Start gluing small, slightly straighter crepe myrtle branches around the straight sticks to fill it in until you have the center nice, thick, and uniform in width from top to bottom. Using the slightly curled ones on the bottom will give a full base (remember, you look up at a chandelier!)
  
  
  Step 6:
  

  

  
  

  
  Gather your curved twigs into small bunches and wrap with wire tightly. You’ll need many of these. The more small bunches you use, the tighter you can pack them on and it’ll have a denser appearance. Bigger bundles create a slightly looser appearance. Play with each to see which gives the look you want.
  
  
  Step 7:
  Start attaching the bunches with wire or glue (if permanent) to the center base. Work around spacing evenly, filling in between those spaces as needed. Curve the sticks out. Work around in layers, not all in one spot. Keep going until you’re happy with the fullness. You’ll want to cover the center fairly well so that you don’t see through it.
  
  
  The great thing about this project is that it is totally subjective. There’s not a “right” look. Each one will be different because all sticks are shaped different. The main goal it to make it full and curve the sticks out and up.
  
  
  
  
  Step 8:
  
  
  Hot glue individual sticks onto bunches to fill in any sparse areas.
  
  
  Step 9:
  
  

  
  Take the grape vine and make bunches of the halves. These are your last layer. They will create the main upward curving branches at each arm of the chandelier. Again, this is subjective how many of these you use. I split one medium size vine in half then used all of it. No more. These will also give you some extra texture on the deeply curled pieces that extend up at the arms.
  
  
  Step 10:
  If desired, take some textural branches collected from the woods (green is better…more pliable) and insert sporadically to add more interest. See the study picture above.
  
  
  Step 11:
  Once all branches all the above steps are done, take the pruning snips and level off the bottom to create a flat plane when looked at from the side. See study picture above.
  
  
  Step 12:
  Remove any globes, and replace bulbs with candelabra bulbs with the correct base size for your chandelier. This was my one sticking point. When you remove a globe, you have these ugly porcelain medium size bases exposed. IF your chandelier is not hanging, it’s easy to take those bases out and attach candelabra sockets. When it’s hanging, the wires are tight and it’s nearly impossible. I decided to use candelabra bulbs with medium bases and then make a sleeve to cover the base. Here is the template I used. You can cut it down to fit if need be. I made it in Word, cut it out and then painted it to match the chandelier color (ignore the detail lines. I just used the outline of the leaves for shape). Don’t worry about a heavy coat of paint. Mottled is what you want to mimic the wood tones if going natural. Just copy and paste into word to make multiples. Cut out, wrap, and hot glue or tape, then paint. Just drop over bulbs to cover sockets.
  
  

  

  This is the best I can give until
  I figure out how to attach a document to a post!

                       
  Another option might be to order wax sleeves. The issue might be the width of a globe base versus a regular wax sleeve width. One of my favorite blogs has a post on this, a retailer link and coupon.
  http://fortheloveofahouse.blogspot.com/2011/08/favorite-detail-real-wax-candle-sleeves.html
  
  
  
  
  Step 13:
  Spray paint if desired. How heavy is totally up to you!
  
  
  Step 14:
  Take garland and make a double wrap around the candelabra base. Cut with wire cutters and crimp double pieces together. Just drop down into base and adjust little “sprigs” as desired.
  
  

  
  
  
  Step 15:
  Hang and step back to admire! This chandelier looks best on a dimmer switch. I just love the way the light plays off it. Enjoy!
  
  
  Extra Tips:
  Tips 1:
  Remember, the twigs don’t have to be super secure. Once hanging, it won’t receive much movement or touching, so it can be a little fragile. This would be the case if you don’t want it to be permanent… like my dining room version. I could reach up any time and simply take it all off if I got tired of the look! It’s just all wired on there. The second white version is glued, so it’s permanent and really secure.
  
  
  Tip 2:
  If using a chandelier like shown, take off the bottom parts to expose just the threaded rod (they’re just screwed on). This is what you’ll attach your bottom branches to. Run a bead of hot glue around the
  section that transitions from the arms to the rod to hold it in place (taking the finial and ball off leaves
  nothing to hold it in place).
  Use large sticks to surround it immediately and thicken up the rod. Then switch to small to keep the texture uniform when looking up at the bottom. Keep going until it’s as thick as the top section above the arms.
  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  
  
  
  *I am researching solutions to soak the wood in to make it less flamable as a safety precaution and will post any updates as I find them.*
  Good luck! If you have any questions, send them as a comment and I'll post answers. If one person has a question, I'm sure more will and that way we can all see the answers:)
  Send pictures of your versions. I'd love to see your version!
  
  
  

Budget "Glass Tile" Tutorial

My "Glass Tile" backsplash.
(Don't you just love how a flash will bring out the streaks on your stainless you didn't know were even there?! UGH!)

I've been playing around with some ideas on how to improve the realism, thus the wait on the tutorial. I like the original in my kitchen, but I am sure I could improve on it given time. So, I'll give the tutorial as I did it, and then tell you what I'm playing around with. I'll post any improvements as I discover them. I don't have pictures to go with this version, but I'm taking pictures as I recreate this to post in an updated version
later down the road.

Materials:

DecoArt's Triple Thick Glazing in High Gloss - available at most craft stores like Michael's &
      Hobby Lobby
Artist 1/8" tape - again, available at craft stores in the fine art section where the canvases
      and palette supplies are located
Sample pot of your paint color of choice in the glossiest sheen available
     (or a quart of high-gloss paint)
     *I used a sample of Gliddens Celery Stick in eggshell, but wish I'd gotten high-gloss
Fan Brush
Smooth Surface Paint Roller
Floetrol Additive - to eliminate brush strokes and extend working time - CRITICAL to get the best look!
       (I did mine before discovering Floetrol!)
Quart or gallon of your "grout" color in a tough enamel 
      *I used Sherwin Williams Super Paint in "Informal Ivory" to match my trim
      *White is best as it doesn't tint the colored paint for your tile and gives the truest color,
         but if you do two or three thin layers of your color paint it really won't matter.
Tweezers - to get hold of tape when removing.
Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Exterior/Interior Varnish - available at craft stores in 8 oz bottles.
*Optional - if you create this on a thin layer of Plexiglas cut to size that fits in tightly between cabinet
         and counter and then attach to the wall, you can easily remove it later if you change your mind,
         Creating this on a flat surface and MUCH easier than reaching back under cabinets to work on a
         vertical wall.


The key here is layers and layers and LOTS of high gloss! If you look at a picture of glass subway tiles (or what ever shape you prefer) like below, you'll see there is a lot of shadowing. I was attempting to recreate the transparent glass, not the solid or iridescent. Those would actually be SO MUCH easier to do (typical of me...gotta do the hard stuff!).



via Houseonthehillblog.wordpress.com
Oh, so pretty!



via House Beautiful.com
Notice the shadowing created by depth and transparency.

via Mineral Tiles.com
Recycled Glass Mosaic Tile Luxury Nacar = $9.95 p/sf

via Mineral Tiles.com
Clear Glass Tile Classic Pure Ice = $11.58 p/sf
Notice the shadowing. This can also be achieve with simple paint to create an illusion.

From my files. Don't remember where it came from.

via Mineral Tiles.com
Glass Tile Classic Lime Blend = $11.58 p/sf

via Mineral Tiles.com
Iridescent Glass Tile Marine Aqua Blend = $16.58 p/sf
You can get this iridescent opal effect with cheap nail polish!

via Mineral Tile.com
Wave 3D Glass Tile Egypt Apis  = $22.25 p/sf
How cool is this basket weave?!

 I've learned a lot since creating this version, and I'll throw in extra info as I go that will save you some time and trouble.

Step 1:

Cut your Plexiglas down to fit snugly between the cabinet and counter. It needs to be tight enough to hold it in place and need some nudging to get in, or you'll have to use an adhesive to hold it on. Your choice. I wouldn't want the adhesive should I decide to take it out one day because it will do a number on your drywall, but if you plan to always put something there, like real tile one day, then go for it!

If applying straight to the wall, thoroughly clean surface with a degreaser and let dry completely.

Step 2:

After mixing a generous amount of Floetrol into your paint base/grout coat of tough enamel in a separate container (mix as needed), apply over all the area to be covered by "tile" with the smooth roller.

If using the Plexiglas, after cutting down, then apply the paint base coat to cover the entire surface evenly with the smooth roller.

Step 3:

Using a template or measure out with a straight edge or level for whatever pattern you choose (I did 3"x6" tiles and just used a level), trace a very faint pencil mark (mechanical .5 in the lightest lead possible works best). Trace the tile pattern onto the base coated surface (where all the grout will be - thus the need for light marking).

Step 4:

Apply the artist tape to the "grout lines" where the template was traced onto the base surface. Keep lines as straight as possible...no squiggles or it won't look like glass tile! It's also critical to think about the order the lines are being laid. For instance, lay the vertical lines first, and then the horizontal and try to use only one piece of tape per line for easy removal. Lightly burnish the tape edges to make sure it's adhered tight.

Step 5:

Using the fan brush, apply a coat of gloss or high gloss polyurethane over all your tape to seal the edges so no paint will seep under. I typically apply two thin coats to make sure it's sealed well. Thick coats make the paint get too wet and bubble. (I like to use Delta Ceramcoat Exterior/Interior Varnish, but any will do).

Step 6:

This is where you need to decide if you want to go with solid or transparent tiles. If going with solid, you'll apply an even layer of joint compound about 1/4" thick with a trowel over the entire surface. EVEN is key here and smooth. I've not tried this version as I was going for transparent, but I've seen it done. (You might want to experiment with using a spray bottle to mist water over a test surface to create a slip in order to make a slick, smooth surface.). As soon as surface is acceptably smooth and still wet, pull up the artist tape before compound dries to create the grout lines. This would be very tough with a staggered subway pattern. It would need to be continuous lines where the tape is accessible after the joint compound is applied. for instance, first lay the vertical so the ends are covered by the horizontal tape. That way when the horizontal pieces are removed, the vertical ends become exposed. You may need to use tweezers to get hold of the end initially. Allow joint compound to dry at least 24 hours or longer. Follow drying times on label. There are also other ways to paint this to achieve tumbled marble, regular tile, and stone effects. That's for another post, though:)

Step 7:

Mix a generous amount of Floetrol in with your paint color of choice in a separate container. Apply a thin coat evenly using a smooth coat small roller to entire surface, regardless of if joint compound was used or not. Apply two coats if color isn't as uniform or deep as desired. Better to apply two thin coats than one thick! If joint compound was used, MAKE SURE to NOT paint the grout lines. Allow paint to dry completely.

Step 8:

This is where I am experimenting with the best way to get that thick transparent effect. If joint compound was used, simply apply one or two thin layers of high-gloss polyurethane to seal and you're done! If going for the transparent effect, you're about half-way done.

I've not tried applying the Floetrol to the Triple Thick, but this is where it would help tremendously. Triple thick is awesome but is true to it's name - THICK - and sets quickly! It can't be applied with a foam brush (FYI!). You're going to need MULTIPLE coats to get the transparent effect, so patience is needed here. If you have a spouse who isn't, might want to reconsider making them look at this for about a week!

Keep applying coats until the desired thickness is achieved, allowing each to dry completely before the next is applied, but be careful to test that tape can still be removed cleanly! It  might be a good idea to do a trial run or test board prior to the actual project to calculate how many layers, time this project will take and any unforseen problems.

Step 9:

Once desired thickness is achieved, remove tape to reveal grout lines. You'll need to take a WHITE or natural eraser and remove the pencil marks left.

Step 10:

Now that you have a difference in height from the grout to the tile, apply a couple of coats of high gloss polyurethane and you're done! Whew! Not hard, but tedious and time consuming:) Once this is all dry and has set for at least a week, you can wipe it down just like tile. I use Windex on mine...especially behind the stove.

What am I experimenting with?

I'm getting ready to play around with liquid epoxy resin, Plexiglas, old sheet mirrors from the Habitat Restore, Golden's Gloss Gel Medium and old tempered glass commercial shelving (if I can find it) in a couple of different ways to see if I can find a faster and just as cheap method that has more depth and transparency. In my opinion it's a waste of time if you don't save substantial cash when compared to real tile. It's not worth it time-wise or money-wise. So, I'm doing the playing and saving you the effort. When I find a better way, you'll be the first to know!

Wow! That seems wordy, but there is a lot to look out for to get the desired effect here. I wish I had pictures, because if you're like me, you NEED them. As I play with this new version, I'm taking them like a good blogger for you. Until I can post an updated version, here's my first one to experiment with. Have fun!

Here's some "natural" sparkle to get you inspired!



"Frozen Rain"
B.E. Interiors Photography



"Bejeweled Mushroom"
B.E. Interiors Photography

"Morning Dew"
B.E. Interiors Photography

"Early Morning"
B.E. Interiors Photography